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9mm 3d Groove
My interest in this experiment is purely curiosity. I really want to test them, and if anyone is willing to help me out, I'll send you a bunch of them, as long as it's all good in the eyes of the law.
9mm bullet 3d models ✅. 9mm bullet Valve caps, Fits standard valve on bike / Car initial fitment will be tight as the valve will be cutting a new thread into the. 9mm Bullet Types and Uses. 9mm ammo is one of the more popular calibers available to American civilian shooters today. 9x19 handgunners know there are a ton of bullet types available to them with each having its own specific benefit based on the intended use. 9 9mm bullet keychain replica License 9mm Bullet Replica by JaredNew is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license.
I unashamedly admit that I'm a firearms newb, and have no intentions of becoming a felon just because of a dumb experiment. As both a reloader and a 3D printing guy, I would kind of super duper strongly recommend that nobody does this.
9mm Bullet 3d Model Free
1) Consumer 3D printers are not famous for their dimensional accuracy. Bullets need to be sized very accurately to function properly in a firearm 2) These bullets will be printed with a thermoplastic that has a glass temperature somewhere between 60 degrees - 90 degrees Celsius. If you do manage to fire one of these things through your firearm without blowing up your face, your bore is going to be coated with melted plastic that's going to be embedded in the rifling and will be a real bitch to get out. Will subsequent shots using lead or copper-jacketed bullets clean out the bore?
I have no idea. 3) AFAIK the guys at the Demolition Ranch and Taofledermaus YouTube channels shoot 3D printed ammunition out of a smooth-bore firearm like a shotgun. TL;DR: if you're a 3D printing guy and a firearms noob, or an experienced reloader but a 3D printing noob, you might not be familiar enough with both domains to understand what an epically bad idea this probably is. I've shot 3d printed bullets out of a rifled barrel. They are soft enough that they don't build up significant pressure, in fact you will never get them to even come close to cycling the gun. They don't melt, just some powder marks where they didn't engage the rifling. It wipes off with your fingers.
For anyone wanting to try this, a grain or two of powder is all you need. You can get them to go supersonic, but then the accuracy sucks and they still don't cycle. Overall they are pretty similar to the wax bullets or hot glue bullets that revolver guys use for practice except they feed in a semi-auto when you manually cycle them.
I'm not saying it's impossible. I've seen videos where guys are clearly doing it. I'm more saying that it's something that should be approached with great care, and by someone with some knowledge in both reloading and 3D printing. My chief concern would be with the dimensional accuracy of the bullets rather than any potential effects on the barrel. I would want to measure every single bullet with calipers, because (I suspect) things like a short section of your filament that's a little larger than the size you expect can cause changes in dimensions of your printed object that exceed the tolerances allowed for bullets. Depending on the thermoplastic you chose, you might also potentially be in for a bad time.
Plastics like ABS are less brittle and more compressible that PLA- and the brittleness of the PLA will vary according to the particular formulation of the manufacturer and may vary from batch to batch. Again, I'm not saying you can't do it- but OP happily admits they are a firearms noob. Dimensions being perfect really only come into play if it is going to cause excess pressure. You aren't going to be able to do that with a plastic projectile. It is just too soft.
Squeeze a hardcast lead/tin/antimony bullet with a pair of pliers and then do the same to a 3d printed bullet. Or even just try tapping one of each through a barrel with a wooden dowel. The difference is huge. Again this isn't really any different than the wax/hot glue bullets people have been using for years. 1) Consumer 3D printers are not famous for their dimensional accuracy. Bullets need to be sized very accurately to function properly in a firearm Not a thermoplastic expert, but I can at least say that this is particular concern could be pretty easy to test and possibly correct. I'd take one and stuff it through a Lee.356 sizer.
If it can be shoved through, I'd call it plenty safe from a sizing perspective. Will subsequent shots using lead or copper-jacketed bullets clean out the bore?
I have no idea. Almost certainly yes. Particularly if you use powder coated lead, which is slightly abrasive. ETA: I've shot a lot of the plastic training bullets from Speer. They're reasonably consistent on sizing, but not perfect. The polymer is certainly more brittle than it is elastic. They do shave a bit in some rifling, but it's not a big deal.
Also, I'd recommend getting a reloading book to read through. For just making these test rounds, you could get one from your library instead of buying it.
Is a decent starting book. Note, this is a WorldCat link, at the bottom it will tell you the closest library to you that has the book.
If none near by do, go to your library and put in an Inter Library Loan (ILL) request for the book. A couple weeks later (max), the book will show up, and you'll get to keep it for 2 weeks with a possible renewal option (depends on the libraries involved and their agreement). ILL will likely be free to you. (Almost all libraries in North America and Europe participate in a InterLibary network that freely trades books between libraries.
Sometimes there is a small fee to cover shipping, but most of the time the libraries cover this cost as part of the operating costs for ILL services.). Each 9mm projectile costs about $0.02 in raw material. The 3D files for 9mm bullets are freely available and legal because I'm a damn American! Anyway, all I did was instruct my printer to take an existing 3D model of a 9mm parabellum, and print the file with 3 outer shells, and no bottom layers.It literally took no effort to make these. I can start my printer, work a shitty 8 hour day, and come back to 200 rounds sitting on my printer.
The first rounds I printed were solid plastic, but they're so light that I don't know if they'd work. People have fired 3D printed 9mm rounds, and they work.
But they've been 100% plastic. IIRC they had only 1/3 the stopping power of a.22LR.